AREA AROUND PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

Shops like Armani, Versace, Bulgari, and so on that are known around the world, are listed but more description is given to shops that are unusual, or have things you would not find elsewhere. The classic, high-concentration, high-rent shopping area fans out from the splendid landmark Piazza di Spagna, with its wide steps leading from the church of Trinita' del Monti, to a grid of well-known streets lined with boutiques bearing chic names. To start, here's a list of the streets that flank Piazza di Spagna with the names of the best-known shops that can be found.

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

BALLOON, N.35, (inside the courtyard), one of a chain of shops owned by the Greco family of brothers and sisters who have classic Italian designs for men and women reproduced in China, many in silk or pure cotton, with very reasonable prices. Silk men and women's pajamas are their trademark.

KRIZIA, N.87, this doyenne of Italian fashion has for over 40 years offered some of the most original and beautifully-made ready-to-wear clothes in Italy. Long before Giorgio Armani revolutionized the jacket Krizia was selling trim suits with the most beautifully shaped shoulders, each one carefully mounted and pressed by hand in her factory. Special touches of embroidery, for an elegant woman who wants to stand out from the crowd.

MISSONI, N.78, is enjoying a revival, especially among young women who started wearing their mother's old striped and flame-stitched knits and went on to the current version. For men a colorful Missoni cardigan is a wonderful compromise to the jacket for home and informal wear.

BENETTON, N.94-95 - There are several Benetton stores in Rome, but this has the best selection of stock and service.

FRETTE, N.11, a classic Italian name in luxury linens, they also have stores in Paris, London, New York, and Beverly Hills. Sheets, towels, bedspreads, bathrobes, accessories for bed and bath, beautiful embroideries, made-to-measure, and initials on anything you want.

GENNY, N.27, is the leading brand of women wear from the Girombelli Group in Ancona. The clothes are for the career woman who shuns the gray pinstripe suit, she means business but she doesn't want to look like a man. Sophisticated evening wear, too.

D&G, N.82/83, is the younger line from Dolce and Gabbana, the couple that makes those elegant thrift-shop outfits you see on Madonna and Isabella Rossellini. Only they could put a fake-fur collar on a flower-print coat and call it chic.

OTHER SHOPS OF INTEREST
These are scattered in various areas but are worth mentioning as many have items you won't find anywhere else.

LA CITTA' DEL SOLE
Via della Scrofa 65, and Piazza della Chiesa Nuova 20.  A very special toy store with a great choice of amusing toys for children of all ages, for a special present to stimulate the fantasy!

ALBERTELLI
Via dei Prefetti 11, One of the best shops for men in Rome, with a wondeful choice of first-class men's clothes, the best quality cashmere sweaters, nice ties, hats and overcoats. Although opened in 1967 it has a classic, ageless atmosphere. Wonderful made-to-measure men's shirts.

BAULLA'
Via dei Baullari 37, (Piazza Farnese) Clothes for women including hats, shawls, coats, a few shoe styles, traditional but everything has a special touch, for example handbags for summer decorated with seashells, or chic linen dresses and jackets for summer, classic but with a youthful cut. Irish sweaters and caps in soft wool, chenille scarves in bright colors.

BISCOTTIFICIO INNOCENTI
Via della Luce 21, along with the museums one of the most interesting things to see in Rome are shops that still work in an artisan way: every cookie in this bakery is cooked personally by the Innocenti couple.

BRIONI
Via Barberini 79, and Via Condotti. This traditional Italian men's tailor and shop has a tradition going back for 50 years and outfitted the latest James Bond, Pierce Bosnan. The old-time Hollywood stars like Clark Gable and Gary Cooper were treasured clients.

BOMBA
Via dell'Oca 39, Just knitwear for women in a shop with a country atmosphere, twin-sets, long vests, long dresses, handmade by local artisans with original details.

JOSEPHINE DE HUERTAS & CO
Via di Parione 19-20 (Piazza Navona), Chic suits for women, including knits, ethnic-style necklaces, some in smoked plastic along with other distinctive accessories, slightly Frenchified Italian style with a youthful accent.

LA BUGIA
Via Pie` di Marmo 30, For special candles, every kind you can imagine, as well as the candleholders and tiny lampshades; during the Christmas season the offerings include candelabra entwined with garlands.

CROCIANELLI
Via dei Prefetti 37/40, specializes in passementerie, those wonderful fabric braids, tassels, ribbons and fringes that can be used in furnishing the home, preparing lavish wrappings for presents, or even decorating clothes for an original look.

MORIONDO E GARIGLIO
Via Pie' di Marmo 21/22, where lovers of refined chocolate will feel they have died and gone to heaven. This traditional shop makes all its candies by hand and will make special treats to order, as well as enclose Easter gifts in a beautifully-wrapped traditional chocolate Easter egg.

RADICONCINI
Via del Corso 139, Old-fashioned haberdashery for men which stocks the fine Montecristo Panama hat, handmade and hand-monogrammed shirts and English accessories including gloves and cashmere scarves, run by the grandson of the founder.

VIGANO`
Via Mighetti 7, Romans of the so-called black aristocracy (their titles came from the Pope) buy their clothes without being obsessed by the sales personnel, located right behind the Trevi fountain. Lots of things with a British air. The shop is family-owned.

CAMPO DE' FIORI

This large piazza in the center of old Rome has functioned as a marketplace for centuries, and the heretic Giordano Bruno was burned at the stake where his statue now stands as a warning to the populace. Today it reminds people of what Piazza di Spagna was some thirty years before tourists and boutiqus took over many of the artisan's shops. It's a fashionable gathering place, especially among young people. It has become Rome's salon where everybodoy goes shopping and then stops at the bar Le Terazze for coffee or aperitivo. In the early evening gilded youth like to hang out the Vineria Reggio wine bar which offers a variety of wines and cold snacks. Surrounding streets like Via dei Pettinari, Via dei Sediari,Via dei Baulari, Giubbonari are full of artisan stores.

BORRINI
Via dei Pettinari 87, this is the place for your basic kid and suede pumps with round toes and inch and a half heels in yummy colors as well as ballerinas for summer and winter., all costing around $60 depending on the exchange. Every season there are three or four updated models available, don't be put off by the down-home decor, the shoes are top quality.

CURIOSITA' ANTICHE
Via del Pettinari 74, 001086 - This is the address for collectors of antique jewelry of all prices, with pieces that include mother of pearl bracelets, earrings of baroque pearls, and important "parures" sets of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, some of which belonged to famous stars.

BERTONATI
Via dei Pastini 18a, 00186 (near the Pantheon). Maria Rosaria Bertonati and her daughter Antonia, who came from Torre del Greco near Naples which is the center for cameo-making, offer both antique and new cameos and coral necklaces which can also be created to order as they do their own stringing and repairs. Imaginative work, some articles in turquoise. Mother and daughter enjoy talking about this old Italian art.

ANGEL STATION
Via Panisperna 244, 00184 - If you have a thing for angels this is your heaven, the owner has lovingly collected al kinds of antiques that have angels as a theme including vases, statues, engravings, paintings, beautifully displayed against a blue background. You won't be able to resist!

ARTISTS AND ARTISANS

Artists and artisans who create unusual things: These very talented artists and artisans are worth a mention. Since many don't have street shops you must telephone for an appointment.

PAOLO MARJ
Piazza del Fico 21/A Tel. 0668807707 Mobile 333 3010673 - Paolo Marj's design originates from the joining of several materials and peculiar working techniques. Plexiglass is sandblasted, dyed and moulded. Wood is shaped, turned and naturally coated.Terracotta, marble, steel are some of the other materials used. All the shapes are accurately hand made in a creative context leading to various particular and innovative objects. In the sculpture field we can add the use of papier maché, resin, chalk and iron. The light is often used as an expressive vehicle.
Web site www.paolomarj.com ; e-mail paolo.marj@virgilio.it

STUDIO ELP
Via Arco de' Tolomei 2, Tel. 065806745 (by appointment) Elena Levi's semi-precious jewelry made in India represents understatment. The most famous of her pieces is "the Whip" which drapes around the neck. The studio is located on a very quiet piazza inTrastevere and with a beautiful garden of orange and lemon trees. Sra. Levi is often around Europe for exhibitions or in India choosing material for the new collection.

EMANUELE PANTANELA
Wooden minaudieres with a unique extraordinary designs, belt buckles and other accessories. He has a permanent window inside the Victoria & Albert Museum and travels the world for his sophisticated clients. By appointment, telephone 06333 0255

ALLEGRA FORNERIS
makes picture frames and tables for outdoor and indoor decorated with handpainted tiles to order. By appointment. Via Sebastiano Conca 6 Tel 06322 2333 or 06904 3292

GAIA FRANCHETTI
Indo-Roman collection. Via Orti D'Alibert 15, Tel 066880-2158 Fax 06683-2932 This globe-trotter buys the fabrics in India and adds Italian classic details for tableclothes, napkins, cushion covers, quilts.

EX ANTE
Largo Tornioli 4, sells things made by a group of craftsmen and women including furniture, collate, picture frames, and accessories.

ILARIA MIANI
Via degli Orti d'Alibert 13, Tel: 066861366 - small objects for the home, tables, lamps, handmade with fine materials and exquisite detailing.

CLEMENTINE IMPERIALI
Tel: 5834-0384 makes beautiful bronze sculptured rings with semi-precious stones. Good value for money. By appointment.

OSANNA AND TURCHESE REBECCHINI
Via della Conciliazione 22, two young society women with matchless taste create original, feminine jewelry, or will take your treasures and make them into unique, wearable pieces. By appointment: Tel: 066861991

BOOKS IN ENGLISH

MELBOOK STORE
Via Nazionale 254, Open Monday through Saturday 9 am to 8 pm, Sunday from 9 am to 1 pm and the afternoon from 4 pm to 8 pm. Closed on Sundays in August, Christmas, Easter, and August 15. They sell a variety of books in Italian, English, German, Spanish, and French. Also a number of gadgets, T-shirts, bookmarks and so on.

REMAINDERS
Piazza San Silvestro 27/28, open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 7.30 pm, Sundays from 10 am to 1 pm and from 4 pm to 7 pm. During the summer the bookstore is closed on Sundays and during lunch hours. Large selection of fiction and art books, in Italian and English, many available at discount.

ANGLO AMERICAN BOOK STORES
has a big assortment of books at Via della Vite 102, Tel: 066795222, the store at Via della Vite 27 carries technical and scientific books. They have a web site at www.aab.it where you can check for availability of books.

LA STRADA
Via Veneto 36, This bookstore has just opened with a large variety of english books on all subjects. You can also find calendars with pictures of the Vatican or the Sistine Chapel. Open Monday - Friday from 9.30am to midnight, Saturdays from 9.30am to 1 am, Sundays from 11 am to 1.30pm and from 5 pm to midnight.

ECONOMY BOOKSTORE
Via Torino 136, open nonstop 9 am to 8 pm, closed on Sundays. All books in English, great variety including many guidebooks, also videos, greeting cards.

HAIRDRESSERS

FEMME SISTINA
Via Sistina 75a, (Two doors down from the Hotel Hassler) Lisette Lenzi knows how to cater to her demanding clientele, great place for leg waxing and having face cleaned - there's also a boutique with a careful selection of clothes and accessories.

ROBERTO D'ANTONIO
Piazza di Pietra 36, Nice atmosphere, lots of beautiful young actresses and a pleasant atmosphere, the owner pampers his well-bred customers and specializes in short cuts. Book ahead for Roberto.

SERGIO VALENTE
Via Condotti 11, Elegant atmosphere where the chic Roman ladies have their hair done, for years Sergio also had a salon at Bergdorf Goodman's, and knows how to take special care of his customers.

SERGIO RUSSO
Piazza Mignanelli 25, at the far end of Piazza di Spagna, is known for his inspired haircuts, the calm atmosphere contributes to a relaxing experience.

PIT STOPS

Some stores stay open all day, but at some point during a hectic round of shopping a pit stop is required to rest the feet and brain. Here are some suggestions.

ANTICO CAFFE' GRECO
Via Condotti 86, right opposite Gucci and Bulgari; a café named after the merchant who opened it in 1760, popular with artists, literati, and adventurers (among other famous clients, we can mention Goethe, Stendhal, and Casanova). Some of the furnishings are original.

HOTEL D'INGHILTERRA
Via Bocca di Leone 14, has a small quiet bar perfect for tea or an aperitivo, or in the cheery salon next to it where you can have a quick, light lunch. Carla Fendi is a loyal patron.

BAR VANNI
Via Frattina 94, on warm days it's nice to sit outside at a table under an umbrella for a chicken or tuna sandwich and a glass of iced tea. If you're in a real hurry you can eat standing at the bar.

BAR CIAMPINI
Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, closed Sundays. With your back to Piazza di Spagna walk down to the end of Via Frattina, cross Via del Corso and you're in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, recently opened only to pedestrians. At the far right corner you'll find the Bar Ciampini with tables outside under umbrellas, a great place to rest your weary feet and do some people-watching while having a drink, sandwich, or ice cream.