A note about Florence - you can go crazy looking for an address unless you remember that there's always a letter after the street number, r for rosso (red) and n for nero (black). Red stands for commercial establishments, black is for residences. Knowing this may save you a few headaches.

The most prestigious shopping area in Florence is the area between Via Tornabuoni, the most prestigious shopping street (Gucci, Bulgari, Valentino, Fendi, Armani, Versaci, Ferragamo) and Via Calzaiouli, a long pedestiran-only street just behind Piazza Repubblica. Check out Via Maggio for antique shops.

MAIN SHOPPING AREA

ALINARI
Via della Vigna Nuova 48r, Tel: (055) 218975. The Alinari brothers put together one of the largest historic photo archives in Italy and you'll find prints and books for sale, as well as a constantly-changing photo exhibit. An antique print of Florence would make a wonderful present for a special somebody.

ALLEGRI
Via Tornabuoni 27r, Tel: (055) 213737. Allegri is a factory that specializes in fashionable raincoats.

ANGELA CAPUTI
Borgo S. Jacopo 82r-78r, Tel: (055) 212972. This is the place to go for imaginative costume jewelry at the right price. The inexpensive heart earrings make great take-home presents. Next door Angela has a boutique where she sells simply-designed but well-made clothes to go with her accessories.

ANTICA FARMACIA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
Via del Escala 16, 50123, Tel: 055 216276. Located in a former church, this isn't a real pharmacy for drugs but rather a place with a wonderful old-fashioned atmosphere and products of their own production including a very pungent wet pot-pourri and the lily of the valley essence.

ANTICO SETIFICIO FIORENTINO
Via Bartolino 4, Tel: 055 212861, open Monday to Friday 9 to 13, 14 to 17. This is the kind of shop worth visiting even if you have no attention of buying, the name translate to "Old Florentine Silk Factory" and some precious fabrics are made on looms that were designed centuries ago. The walls are lined with bolts of silk in every color, most of today's fabrics are based on traditional designs.

BELTRAMI
Via Tornabuoni 48r, Tel: 055 287779. This is a traditional shop specializing in leather goods, for those who want quality but don't care if there's a well-known name attached. See their shoes, bags, and belts as well as suits, coats, cashmere sweaters and silk scarves.

BULGARI
Via Tornabuoni 9. Bulgari is Bulgari, what more can we say? Don't be intimidated, they even sell simple wedding bands for what you'll pay at the ordinary no-name jewellry shop, athough in Florence the goldsmith tradition is strong and it's hard to go wrong. Admire the windows, at least.

CELLERINI
Via del Sole 37r, Tel: 055 252533. Luxury leather goods and accessories, rather unusual, for individuals who are not slaves to brand names. They also make to order.

COLE-HAAN
Via della Viagna Nuova 77r, Tel: 055 211553 - 499940. For the biggest selection of the Cole-Haan line (known to Americans) it's worth a visit, and since all the leather moccasins and shoes for men and women are made in Italy, the prices are about 1/3 less than in the United States. The woven handbags are nice too.

EMILIO PUCCI
Palazzo Pucci, Via dei Pucci 6 - Via Ricasoli 20, Tel: 055 283061. The beloved Marchese is no more, but his daughter Laudomia carries on the tradition of the man who gave women back their bodies and revolutionized fashion. Did you know that Marilyn Monroe asked to be buried in her favorite Pucci dress? Now that the intricate brightly-colored patterns are back in fashion, it's a crime not to leave Florence without at least one item, even if it's a cotton scarf.

EMPORIUM
Via Faenza 23-25r, Tel: 055 282058. It is full of fabrics, cushions, towels, lampshades, baskets, and ceramics, many of them coordinated in patterns from Provence, unusuam home furnishings.

ENRICO COVERI
Via Tornabuoni 81/r. Tel: 055 211263 and Via Della Vigna Nuova 27/29, Tel: 055 2381769. Enrico may be gone to a better world but his sister Sylvia has continued in his tradition of fun, brightly-colored clothes with a good cut and a touch of humor.

ERBORISTERIA PALAZZO VECCHIO
Via Vacchereccia 9r (Piazza Signoria), Tel: 055 296055. For those who just love natural products and herbs and all that good stuff this shop is a find. A variety of soaps from violet and vitamin E, lettuce and collagen, oil of almond plus what germ plus vitamin E - hair products including shampoo with ginseng and collagen for delicate hair, wooden brushes, every kind of face cream, cucumber cleaning lotion, and non-chemical mosquito repellent. Ask for the descriptive folder.

FARAONE SETTEPASSI
Via Tornabuoni 24r, Tel: 055 215506 One of Florence's most traditional jewellers.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Via Tornabuoni 12-16r, Tel: 055 43951. The flagship store of the family, with a large selection of shoes, handbags, briefcases, belts, and other leatherware as well as men's and women's clothes and some of the most beautiful neckties you'll find anywhere. Sig. Ferragamo was making shoes to measure in Hollywood for the stars back in the thirties, the first of a long line of made-in-Italy names to come. The anchor of Via Tornabuoni, Florence's toniest shopping street. Call ahead to arrange to visit the Ferragamo Museum, a treasure trove and tribute to the artistic creation of the great Florentine shoemaker, Salvatore Ferragamo. Open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 9am to 1 and 2 pm to 6 pm. Closed all on August and from December 25 to January 7. No more than 30 people can visit the museum at one time.

FORNASETTI
Borgo degli Albrizzi 70r, Tel: 055 2347398. The late architect, whose son also runs a shop in Milan, loved to decorate objects including lampshades and umbrella stands in black and white turn-of-the century prints including Gibson Girl-like faces. There are small objects that make wonderful take-home gifts.

RISALITI
Ponte Vecchio, Tel: 055 294656. One of the nicest of the traditional jewelery shops on the famous bridge spanning the Arno river.

FRATELLI PICCINI
Ponte Vecchio 23, Tel: 055 294768. Another nice jewelery shop on the famous bridge, the grand-daughters of the founder carry on the tradition. A gold charm from their collection makes a wonderful souvenir.

FURLA
Via della Vigna Nuova 28r, Tel: 055 282779. The Furlanetto family has been making bags for over 80 years and owns 18 boutiques throughout Italy. Their specialty is a brushed-leather backpack, but you'll find designs for all tastes here.

GARBO
Borgo Ognissanti 2r, Tel: 055 295338. For those who love traditional old-fashioned lingerie and night wear, along with made-to-order embroidered christening dresses, don't pass up a visit to this shop where they do their own hand-work.

GUCCI
Via Tornabuoni 73r, Tel: 055 264011. The flagship store and headquarters for the world-wide Gucci empire, worth a visit to see what these master retailers are up to these days.

HOUSE OF FLORENCE
Via Tornabuoni 6, Tel 055 230 2610. Ironically, the shop is located across the street from the flagship Gucci store, but Roberto Gucci, grandson of Guccio Gucci the founder of the House of Gucci is on his own here, with a classic, beautifully-crafted line of leather goods designed by his wife Drusilla Caffarelli Gucci. Be sure to check out the amusing line of elephant bags created by Drusilla. Expensive but made in the traditional manner.

LIBRERIA IL VIAGGIO
Borgo degli Albrizzi 41r, Tel: 055 240489 (also fax). It is where you'll find guidebooks to cities and countries all over the world as well maps and travel accessories.

LOCCHI
Via Domenico Burchiello 10, Tel: 055 2298371. This is not a shop but rather a laboratory specializing in glass where collectors take their precious pieces that need repairs. You'll also find a few unique gift items.

LUISA VIA ROMA
Via Roma 29-21r, Tel: 055 217826. It is an institution for chic Florentine women. The owner travels all over the world looking for the best ideas to bring back to his customers and has trained the expert staff to help them put together outfits that are trendy and elegant at the same time. You'll find the house brand of clothes at Luisa Il Corso, Via del Corso 56.

MARINA RINALDI
Via Calzaiuoli 31/r, Tel: 055 293360. One of the lines from Max Mara, classic, chic clothes for women in larger sizes.

MATUCCI
Via del Corso 46 (women) and 71 (men), Tel: 055 212018. Country clothes for rough-city wear.

MOSCARDI
Lungarno Corsini 36r, Tel: 055 214414 for original mirrors and picture frames.

PINEIDER
Via Tornabuoni 75/r, Tel: 055 211605. This is Italy's most prestigious stationery store. The beautifully finished paper in luscious colors would inspire anyone to write letters (with a fountain pen, of course), they also carry small leather goods and custom-made perfume by Lorenzo Villoresi.

QUELLE TRE
Via de' Pucci 43, Tel: 055 293284. Three sisters, Luciana, Cecilia, and Cristiana, run this boutique for women featuring fun, colorful clothes and accessories of their own design and production. For all ages, featuring trapeze dresses, amusing hats, many made with original patchwork fabrics. Something different for those not slaves to the big names. Good value.

REDWALL
Via Tornabuoni 17r, Tel: 055 214056. Don't miss this store, Redwall is the company that makes handbags and accessories under license for such names as Moschino, Giorgio Armani, Romeo Gigli and Borbonese.

OPEN-AIR AND FLEA MARKETS

There are several open-air markets worth visiting including the Straw Market (known to Florentines as "Il Porcellino") near Ponte Vecchio There's also a market at Piazza Santa Croce, the "Mercato delle Cascine" near Ponte della Vittoria on Tuesday mornings, and Piazza Ciompi, which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30 to 12:30 and 15 to 10. On the last Sunday of each month dealers from all over Italy show up and non-dealers are permitted to sell. Mostly things from the beginning of this century, old radios and books, some items for collectors. Many Florentines like to buy their Christmas presents here.
On the last Sunday of every month, Piazza Santo Spirito has a lot of stalls offering all kinds of bric-a-brac and there are even a few American students offering wares. You have to pick carefully among the stuff, but once in a while you find something nice.

BOOKS IN ENGLISH

B AND M BOOKSHOP
Borgo Ognissanti 4r, Tel: 055 294575. They have a good selection of books in English and other languages.

PAPERBACK EXCHANGE
Via Fiesolana 31r, Tel: 055 2478154

BARS AND CAFES

BAR GELATERIA VIVOLI
Via Isole delle Stinche 7, Tel: 055 292334, open 8:30 to 13 Tuesday through Saturday, 10 to 13 Sunday. It's hot and you want the most delicious ice cream Florence has to offer? You're in the Santa Croce area? This tiny ice cream shop has its walls covered with articles from publications all over the world singing its praises.

CAFFE' ITALIANO
Via Condotta 56r, Tel: 055 281082 Behind Piazza Signoria, in one of the angles with true Florentine atmosphere, although recently opened it has already become one of the most popular caffes in Florence. Created by the owner of the restaurant Le Murate , the welcoming atmosphere has been lovingly created down to the last detail. There's a room for a light lunch, and the cultural side is encouraged by frequent meetings and presentations of new books.

DOLCE VITA
Piazza del Carmine, Tel: 055 284595 Closed Sunday. Located in one of the most beautiful piazzas on the other side of the Arno river, this has become the Florence's fashion bar. It's packed for the before-dinner aperitivo, especially in the summer, and since it's open until very late, it's a must meeting point for young professionals and artists.

DOLCI E DOLCEZZE
Piazza Beccaria 84, Tel: 055 234 5458 specializes in take-home pastries, pies, and cakes. Italians seldom bake at home but will often buy something special for Sunday lunch.

GIOCOSA
Via Tornabuoni 83, Tel: 055 239 8206. It is right in the heart of Florence's toniest shopping street, with prices to match, but it's worth it just to catch the scene and see the beautifully laid out snacks. The Negroni (made with Campari) was invented here.